Lifestyle Food & Wine By the Deep Woods and Millbrook
By the Deep Woods and Millbrook
Written by Dr Craig Drummond MW
Monday, 28 August 2017

 

Wines for this tasting have been chosen from Deep Woods Estate in Margaret River and Millbrook Winery in the Perth Hills. They are owned by Perth businessman Peter Fogarty as is the famous Lake's Folly in the Hunter Valley, NSW.

The Deep Woods Estate needs little introduction. It is an award-winning estate established in 1997 and purchased by the Fogarty family in 2005. It is one of the highest vineyards in the region, situated in Yallingup at the northern end of the region where it benefits from the moderating influence of the Indian Ocean.

Millbrook is an attractive property with a beautiful winery and restaurant and is an ideal day trip from the Perth suburbs. It draws on fruit from surrounding vineyards and other regions producing both the estate wines and a regional series. The estate grown Viognier varietal wines (not reviewed) have been a particular fascination of mine and I firmly believe they are the best examples of this unique variety produced in Australia.

The Wines

 

Deep Woods Estate 2017 Margaret River Harmony Rose (RRP $15)

Made from Shiraz and Tempranillo, this is a fruity, fresh style made for early drinking. It displays an attractive magenta colour, a ‘pretty’ nose with lively red fruits, strawberry dominating. The palate is clean, linear and uncomplicated. Evident acid holds it all together with the fruit sweetness giving a lift to the finish. It will be a good luncheon wine when summer arrives.

Deep Woods Estate 2016 Margaret River Chardonnay (RRP $20)

This appealing wine is naturally fermented and given six months yeast lees contact and seasoned in French oak. It has beguiling aromas of stone fruit and nashi pear, with subtle nutty oak showing through. The palate has structural definition from acid and mineral elements and flavours of stone-fruit, melon and cashew. The oak is not overt and well integrated. There has been some steel-vat time to give a focused 'Chablis-like’ character. Easy to drink now, but could be enjoyed for another few years.

Deep Woods Estate 2014 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon (RRP $35)

Made from select parcels of fruit from 30-year-old-vines and matured in new and seasoned French barriques. It is a great example of this Margaret River flagship red variety. The nose is complex, rich and enticing with blackberry and camphor while the palate has cassis, black cherry and some bitter chocolate.  Tannins fine grained and drying. Smooth, ripe and integrated, this wine really lingers. It will drink well for a further 20 years.

Millbrook Winery 20116 Tempranillo (RRP $28)

One of Millbrook's ‘regional’ wines, it is made from fruit from the Geographe region. This Spanish variety is becoming increasingly popular in Australia and this wine is one of the better examples I have tasted. Tempranillo can be made in a variety of styles, from light-bodied to full-bodied – Millbrook’s is a medium-to-full-bodied style, showing garnet colour, with spicy black fruits and complex savoury elements on the nose with flavours of ripe mulberry and blackberry. It has a lush texture with a slight milky character (but not to the extent that typifies the famous wines of Rioja in Spain).

Millbrook Winery Estate 2014 Shiraz Viognier (RRP $35)

This is my pick of the tasting. The Shiraz has the addition of 3% Viognier a tradition practised in the great wines of Cote Rotie and Hermitage in the Northern Rhone Valley. One might wonder what such a small addition could add – well it gives an aromatic lift, a little softness to the palate and enhanced colour. This wine is a beauty, Wonderful aromas of violets and allspice. The mouthfeel is supple, smooth and refined and the black cherry, aniseed and liquorice go on and on. A complete wine with 'personality'. It’s difficult not to drink now, but will reward cellaring for a couple of decades.

 

 

 

Does red wine cause headache? I have heard a lot of people say that it does. I have also heard many say that it is bunkum. It’s the amount of alcohol you drink that causes the vasodilatation and headache they would say. Some put it down to histamines in wine. Others point to the sulphite content as the culprit.

Personally, I have become aware over recent years that certain types of wine, mainly red, will predictably bring on a headache within an hour or so of consumption. And I am talking here about no more than two standard drinks as the trigger.

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